Iran part 3: Shahrud to the Turkmenistan border (05/08/15-14/08/15)

I had my longest ‘civilisation-less’ stretch ahead of me from Sharhud. Nothing major, but more than 200km between towns. As usual the wind was pain in the back (or front, rather) and the heat scorching. I hate the lack of shade in the desert – it makes things really tough sometimes. Normally I like to … More Iran part 3: Shahrud to the Turkmenistan border (05/08/15-14/08/15)

Armenia part 2: Yerevan to the Iranian border (09/07/15-15/07/15)

I cycled off from Yerevan in the burning sun. For a good while the road was nice and flat and there was only one mountain in sight – the two unmistakable peaks of Mount Ararat, the Armenian icon (that now lies 40km into Turkey). Just before the day’s climb started I stopped in a village … More Armenia part 2: Yerevan to the Iranian border (09/07/15-15/07/15)

Armenia part 1: From the Georgian border to Yerevan (03/07/15-08/07/15)

The Armenian side of the border was a chaotic shambles, but within 5 minutes of cycling I was cycling in peace and quiet. In the evening sun everything looked golden – the fields a deep yellow and the mountain peaks different shades of blue as they faded in the distance. In one village not far … More Armenia part 1: From the Georgian border to Yerevan (03/07/15-08/07/15)

Georgia: Dodging cows, cars and thunder storms (21/06/15-02/07/15)

Turkey had been great, but enough was enough. I was excited about travelling somewhere new and the Caucasus seemed like a perfect place to detour while waiting for Ramadan to pass. The border official took an eternity looking at my passport, calling his boss over to check things but eventually I was let through – … More Georgia: Dodging cows, cars and thunder storms (21/06/15-02/07/15)

Turkey part 4: Samsun to the Georgian border (10/06/15-21/06/15)

I left Samsun just after the election results had come in at the weekend. From what most people I’d spoken to had predicted the verdict was a pleasant suprise. Very few of the folks I’d stayed with were voting for the current party AKP, (choosing main left party or HDP) and so I was happy … More Turkey part 4: Samsun to the Georgian border (10/06/15-21/06/15)

Turkey Part 1: From the Greek border to Istanbul (08/05/15-22/05/15)

If the border change from Bulgaria to Greece was dramatic, the crossing into Turkey was something else. Finally I was out of the easy EU borders. This crossing had a long no-man’s land, rusty barbed-wire fencing and large ‘no camera’ signs against military personnel stencils. There were soldiers around the buildings and for the first time … More Turkey Part 1: From the Greek border to Istanbul (08/05/15-22/05/15)

Bulgaria & Macedonia: 3 months and 15 countries (16/04/15-27/04/15)

It felt like spring had come and gone within a week. It was nearly 30 degrees when we crossed the border from Serbia into Bulgaria and I was struggling in the heat. We still had ages to go until our first stop near Vidin, and light would be running out soon so celebrations for ‘100 … More Bulgaria & Macedonia: 3 months and 15 countries (16/04/15-27/04/15)