Timor-Leste Part 2: East of East East (Viqueque to Dili 08/10/17-19/10/17)

The rains had arrived. Viqueque was a muddy mess when I rolled through town. The main drag was flooded in big brown puddles. This was not good: dirt roads are no fun in the wet and there were river crossings up ahead. It was also a bad sign because Timor’s wet season arrives at the … More Timor-Leste Part 2: East of East East (Viqueque to Dili 08/10/17-19/10/17)

Timor-Leste Part 1: The Asian Lap of Honour (Indonesia to Viqueque 27/09/16-07/10/16)

On the way to the border I opened my book and read the last few pages on Timor Leste’s recent history. It would be the first new country to me since Myanmar and I knew absolutely nothing about the place. If you’re as clueless as I was, here’s a super quick summary: The Portuguese arrived in … More Timor-Leste Part 1: The Asian Lap of Honour (Indonesia to Viqueque 27/09/16-07/10/16)

Indonesia Part 7: Last Stop of The Archipelago (West Timor 21/09/16-27/09/16)

I was at the harbour in Larantuka at 7am. 11 hours later we finally docked in Kupang, just as the last of the sun was slipping below the horizon. Like every ferry crossing in Indonesia, the journey involved a plenty of faff and stalling but was accompanied by stunning views across the straits. It was … More Indonesia Part 7: Last Stop of The Archipelago (West Timor 21/09/16-27/09/16)

Indonesia Part 6: Mister = Money (Flores Island 09/09/16-21/09/16)

Arriving in Labuhanbajo was a surprise. Tourism was the market here, not fish. There were swish hotels, foreigner-friendly restaurants and plenty of other bule around. The boat arrived late (of course) and I checked into a cheap hostel just in time to catch the last of the sunset across the harbour. I’d crossed Sumbawa in … More Indonesia Part 6: Mister = Money (Flores Island 09/09/16-21/09/16)

Indonesia Part 5: Attack of the Monkeys (Bali, Lombok and Sumbawa Islands 30/08/16-09/09/16)

Wherever I went in Indonesia people would always ask me ‘go to Bali?’. It was as if they thought I’d taken the wrong bus by accident and ended up in their village when I was supposed to be in Bali. Most of the foreign tourists coming here end up on Bali & Gili and they … More Indonesia Part 5: Attack of the Monkeys (Bali, Lombok and Sumbawa Islands 30/08/16-09/09/16)

Indonesia Part 4: Climbing Volcanoes in East Java (Yogyakarta to Banywuangi 24/08/16-30/08/16)

After a day off in Yogyakarta I could leave with something resembling a plan. I would head north to the other side of Java and follow the coastal road east towards Bali. As the road headed north I could see Merapi looming to my left. My last visit to Yogykarta was in 2011, just a year … More Indonesia Part 4: Climbing Volcanoes in East Java (Yogyakarta to Banywuangi 24/08/16-30/08/16)

Indonesia Part 3: Mountaintop Traffic Jams (Merak to Yogyakarta 15/08/16-23/08/16)

One of the things I dislike the most about South East Asia is not being able to wild camp anywhere. There’s either too much jungle to squeeze a tent in, or people have cleared the land to farm or build a house. I miss stealth camping a lot, so when I saw a track leading … More Indonesia Part 3: Mountaintop Traffic Jams (Merak to Yogyakarta 15/08/16-23/08/16)

Indonesia Part 2: Falling Victim to Sumatra’s Deadly Roads (South Sumatra 08/08//16-14/08/16)

The landscape was changing again. The fields of rice disappeared and the hills began to undulate once again but now they were only occasionally covered in palm or rubber trees.  Small cassava trees (a root vegetable) were growing across the hills and farmers were drying crops in the sun. It suddenly occurred to me that it … More Indonesia Part 2: Falling Victim to Sumatra’s Deadly Roads (South Sumatra 08/08//16-14/08/16)

Thailand Part 3: Beach Bumming with Mum (Myanmar to Krabi 11/06/16-25/06/16)

Crossing into Thailand from Laos a few months ago had prepared me for the shock getting off the boat back into Thailand and returning to the 21st Century. Air-conditioned shops, petrol stations, coffee stalls and western food outlets. I cycled onto a perfectly flat four-lane road and almost head first into a car. Whoops. I’d … More Thailand Part 3: Beach Bumming with Mum (Myanmar to Krabi 11/06/16-25/06/16)

Myanmar Part 2: Please, not the Police! (Dawei to Thailand 31/05/16-11/06/16)

A year ago I turned 23 in Turkey. I’d spent the night camping in petrol station owned by a lovely Kurdish family who invited me to dinner and gave me a sheltered pitch from the rain. On the 31st I woke up on my 24th birthday and started my day just as I start most … More Myanmar Part 2: Please, not the Police! (Dawei to Thailand 31/05/16-11/06/16)